The outward appearance of the fashion industry may suggest a space where color and creed are irrelevant, especially in this era of progressive ideas advocating that fashion is for everyone. The outward appearance of the fashion industry may suggest a space where color and creed are irrelevant, especially in this era of progressive ideas advocating that fashion is for everyone. However, behind the scenes, Black and people of color (POC) in 2023 are still grappling to be recognized and heard in an industry where their voices and talent have not taken center stage compared to their white counterparts.
There’s a prevailing sentiment that if any POC holds a position of power, they are expected to maintain the discriminatory status quo and not act as a stepping stone for others of color. This disparity becomes glaringly evident every fashion week season, where POC and Black individuals often encounter racial discrimination and find opportunities to voice their frustrations.
At The Garnette, we aim to be a catalyst for change by spotlighting the ongoing issues plaguing the beloved fashion industry. To provide a comprehensive view, we sought the opinions of Black fashion industry professionals. Jacques Point du Jour, a fashion stylist, shares, “One of the biggest challenges I’ve repeatedly encountered is sitting in a room and having your knowledge and opinions written off as inferior to those of a white person—only to then have your original idea be the final selection after having to explore other options that were never excellent to begin with.” This experience resonates with many Black individuals working in the industry, reinforcing that they are not considered good enough or lack the skills to be taken seriously.
Makeup artist and entrepreneur Maria Atubiga, with years of experience in the beauty and fashion industry, shares her perspective as a Black woman: “My experience as an HMUA has been mixed. When it comes to fashion, we are definitely underrepresented.” She highlights instances during fashion week where Black and brown models carried their foundation in their purses due to past bad experiences with artists unfamiliar with their tones and hair types. Maria emphasizes the need for more Black and brown representation in fashion, urging designers to prioritize inclusion.
Black creatives have long voiced concerns about being overlooked or belittled in an industry to which Black culture has significantly contributed. Fashion owes some of its current allure to streetwear, heavily influenced by hip-hop culture. Will Smith, a Black man from Philadelphia and a pioneer of street fashion, played a crucial role in bringing streetwear from the sidewalks to the catwalk and beyond.
Ann Lowe, a trailblazing African-American fashion designer, earned a commendation for her unique creations from the 1920s to the 1960s. Despite facing racial bias, Lowe’s resilience led her to establish Ann Lowe Originals on Madison Avenue in 1968. Today, her remarkable work is celebrated at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, underscoring her enduring legacy.
While these are just a few of the contributions the Black community has made to the fashion industry, these pioneers often fail to receive the constant praise or attention they deserve. A fashion insider sheds light on their experiences: “I’ve definitely had to fight for jobs and bylines against people who did not have my resume but came with a certain ‘look’ or the connections already.”
While programs like 15 Percent, Fashion for All, and Black in Fashion aim to address diversity issues, accessing these spaces remains challenging. These initiatives provide a voice and community for Blacks and POCs in the fashion industry, though access may be difficult for newcomers or those lacking social capital. More understanding and an open conversation about how to effect real change could make diversity in these spaces more attainable. The goal in writing this article is to foster more open and honest dialogue, contributing to the ongoing conversation about diversity and inclusion in the fashion world.
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